Tea, Tides and Traditions of Ceylon

Some of my most meaningful chapters in life have been written on the road. Over the years, travel has become far more than a way of discovering new places; it has become a journey of discovering new versions of myself along the way. With every destination, I have come to realize that true travel goes beyond ticking places off a map, capturing photographs and collecting memories. For me, it is about immersing myself in its culture, food, people and stories, and allowing myself to become part of the experience. It is about being present enough to absorb the little details, the local rhythms and the stories that make a place what it is. Those are the moments when travel feels most meaningful to me, when I am no longer simply visiting a destination but experiencing it in a way that stays with me long after I have left. And what better place to lose yourself than an island blessed with rich culture, incredible cuisine and beautiful coasts?

This trip held a special place in my travel story for more reasons than one. It brought me to my 20th country, a milestone that felt like a quiet celebration of all the journeys, experiences and memories that had brought me this far. I also happened to travel when the island was wrapped in twinkling lights, the evenings warmer and and an unmistakable spirit of celebration. But as an Indian, this journey held a deeper meaning. I grew up hearing one of the greatest stories rooted in Indian mythology, the Ramayana, a story whose landscapes, characters and legends have travelled across generations and borders and a story deeply woven into our cultural and mythological heritage. Sri Lanka, or Ceylon as it is known in the epic, has a particularly significant place in that story. So, the thought of travelling to a land so deeply intertwined with those stories  felt like stepping into a chapter I had known all my life, yet had never truly seen. There was something deeply fascinating about seeing a place that had existed in my imagination for years, this time through my own eyes.

And so began my journey through Ceylon, or Sri Lanka — the Pearl of the Indian Ocean. A trail of sun-kissed shores, misty tea country, ancient stories, vibrant traditions, unforgettable flavors and countless moments that made me fall a little more in love with this island.

This quick festive getaway began with a hassle free immigration experience at Colombo Airport, followed by a smooth drive to our first and perhaps most unexpected stop, the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. Tucked away in the lush countryside of Kegalle, Pinnawala was my first real introduction to Sri Lanka’s incredible wildlife. Established in 1975 by Sri Lanka’s Department of Wildlife Conservation, the orphanage was originally created to care for orphaned and injured elephants found in the wild. Over the years, it has grown into an important centre for elephant care, conservation and breeding, and is now home to a sizeable herd of Asian elephants. For a trip that had only just begun, it was quite an introduction to the wild and wonderful side of Sri Lanka.

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What makes Pinnawala particularly memorable is the chance to witness these magnificent animals as part of their daily routine. The highlight for most visitors is undoubtedly the elephants making their way towards the Maha Oya River, where they spend time bathing, playing and interacting with one another. Watching an entire herd move towards the river, with the younger calves enthusiastically following along, is quite a sight. The orphanage also allows visitors to observe feeding sessions and learn more about the care and conservation of these gentle giants.

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For me, though, Pinnawala was more than just another stop on the itinerary. There was something humbling about standing by the river and watching these enormous yet remarkably gentle creatures in their element. Amidst the greenery, the sound of rushing water and the occasional playful splash from a calf, it offered one of those simple travel moments that photographs can capture, but never quite fully convey. After this beautiful encounter, we continued our drive towards Kandy, where we called it a day and settled in for the evening.

Our next day started with a visit to the Royal Botanic Gardens in Peradeniya, one of the island’s most beautiful and celebrated botanical gardens. Spread across nearly 147 acres along the banks of the Mahaweli River, the gardens date back to 1821 and are home to more than 4,000 species of plants, including magnificent tropical trees, palms, orchids, spices and medicinal plants. Walking through its vast green avenues, manicured lawns and colouful gardens was a refreshing change of pace, with every turn revealing something new.

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The famous Orchid House, towering palm avenues and enormous Javan fig tree are among its highlights, but what I enjoyed most was simply wandering through the gardens and taking in the sheer variety of tropical flora. There was something wonderfully peaceful about starting the day surrounded by so much greenery, offering a beautiful glimpse into the natural richness of the island.

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Next, while exploring the city of Kandy, we came across a local handicraft store known for its beautifully carved wooden masks, one of the most recognisable traditional art forms of the island. These colourful and expressive masks are far more than decorative souvenirs. Rooted in traditional dance, ritual and folk theatre, each mask represents a particular character, story or belief and carries its own symbolism. The tradition is particularly associated with Ambalangoda, a coastal town renowned for its generations of mask making. Traditionally, the masks are carved from Kaduru wood, a light and soft timber that is smoke dried before being carefully shaped by hand. The craftsman begins with a block of wood and gradually brings the features to life using chisels, carving the exaggerated eyes, elaborate expressions, teeth and other intricate details. Once carved, the mask is painted in vivid colours and finished with a protective coating, giving it the striking appearance for which these masks are known.

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What fascinated me most was discovering that the colours are not chosen merely for visual appeal. Traditional mask making follows established colour conventions, with different shades used to convey the nature, character or status of the figure being represented. Red is commonly associated with demons, warriors and fierce or powerful characters, while white is traditionally used for noble or divine figures and is also seen in features such as eyes and teeth. Yellow can represent supernatural or divine figures, while black has historically been associated with darker or more fearsome characters.  Broadly, Sri Lankan masks are divided into three important traditions: Raksha, which depict powerful demon figures and are associated with festivals and protective rituals; Sanni, which represent eighteen different ailments and form part of traditional healing ceremonies; and Kolam, which portray a wide range of human and mythical characters in folk dance dramas and storytelling.  Standing among these vivid faces, each with its own expression, color and story, I realized that what initially looked like a beautiful piece of handicraft was actually a small window into the island’s folklore, rituals and centuries old artistic traditions.

Traditions are deeply woven into the cultural fabric of the island, forming an important link between its past and present. What I found particularly fascinating was how proudly these traditions continue to be preserved and passed down through generations, from age old rituals and crafts to music, dance, cuisine and religious ceremonies. This living connection with the past is not confined to museums or history books; it can be seen and felt in everyday life. Perhaps that is what makes the island so captivating for travelers, as its heritage continues to shine brightly, offering a glimpse into a culture that has remained deeply rooted in its traditions while welcoming the world with open arms. It was this enduring connection between tradition, faith and heritage that we experienced firsthand at our next stop, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, or Sri Dalada Maligawa. Located in the heart of Kandy, it is one of the most revered Buddhist sites in the world and one of the city’s most significant landmarks.

Located within the former royal palace complex beside Kandy Lake, the temple is believed to house a sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, which was brought to Sri Lanka from India in the 4th century. Over the centuries, the relic became deeply intertwined with the island’s Buddhist faith and royal heritage, with its possession traditionally regarded as a symbol of the right to rule. The present temple, with its distinctive Kandyan architecture, intricately carved details, ornate interiors and gilded roof, reflects the grandeur of the kingdom that once made Kandy its capital. Inside, the relic is kept within a series of richly decorated golden caskets and is the focus of daily offerings and rituals, drawing devotees from across the world. What makes a visit here particularly special is the atmosphere surrounding the shrine. The fragrance of flowers offered by worshippers, the sound of traditional drums, the quiet prayers and the sight of devotees dressed in white create a sense of devotion that is difficult to put into words. The temple is also part of the Sacred City of Kandy, which was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, making it not only an important place of worship but also a remarkable window into the island’s history, faith and cultural heritage.

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The temple is believed to house a sacred tooth relic of the Buddha, which was brought to the island from India in the 4th century and has since held immense religious and historical significance. For centuries, the relic was closely associated with the monarchy, with its possession regarded as a symbol of sovereignty, and Kandy became its final resting place when it served as the last capital of the Sinhala kings. The temple itself forms part of the historic royal palace complex and beautifully reflects the distinctive Kandyan style of architecture, with intricate woodwork, ornate paintings and richly decorated interiors. At the heart of the temple lies the inner chamber where the relic is kept within a series of ornate golden caskets, and although visitors do not see the relic itself, the daily rituals and offerings surrounding it create an atmosphere of deep devotion. The temple is also at the centre of the spectacular Esala Perahera, an annual procession featuring traditional dancers, drummers, decorated elephants and elaborate ceremonies in honor of the sacred relic. Together with the surrounding historic city, the temple forms part of the Sacred City of Kandy, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.

What makes it particularly compelling for a travel story is that the temple isn't simply an architectural landmark. It is a place where faith, history, tradition and living culture continue to come together, making a visit feel much more meaningful than simply seeing another monument.

Another beautiful expression of the island’s living traditions can be found in its traditional dance forms, particularly Kandyan dance, which originated in the central highlands around Kandy. More than a performance, Kandyan dance is a living tradition that brings together movement, music, rhythm and ritual, and has historically been closely associated with Buddhist ceremonies and religious festivals. The dancers are instantly recognizable by their elaborate costumes, striking headgear, intricate ornaments and energetic movements, accompanied by the powerful rhythms of traditional drums. Each movement and gesture carries meaning, with the performances drawing inspiration from folklore, mythology, nature and spiritual traditions. What makes the art form particularly captivating is the way it conveys stories and beliefs without relying on words. Through its rhythm, expressions and carefully choreographed movements, Kandyan dance becomes a visual language through which generations have preserved their stories, beliefs and cultural identity. Watching it felt like witnessing history come alive through movement, a reminder of how beautifully tradition can survive when it continues to be celebrated and passed from one generation to the next.

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After a day of discovering the island through its traditions, art and stories, we finally slowed down and let the evening unfold at its own gentle pace. The day came to a beautiful close with a sunset that set the sky ablaze in fiery oranges and softened into mellow golden hues. As night fell, we gathered for a Christmas gala dinner, soaking in the warmth and cheer of the season. Later, a quiet walk on the terrace offered the perfect way to end the evening. With a cool breeze in the air and a sky sparkling with stars above, we stood admiring the beautifully illuminated Buddha statue on a nearby hillside. It was a peaceful end to a day that had been filled with discovery, tradition and celebration.

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The next morning, we set off towards our next destination, Nuwara Eliya, with the road taking us deeper into the island’s picturesque hill country. Along the way, we stopped at the Glenloch Tea Factory, a visit that felt almost essential in a country whose identity is so closely intertwined with tea. Sri Lanka is renowned across the world for its Ceylon Tea, and the lush plantations carpeting its central highlands are a defining part of the island’s landscape and economy. At Glenloch, we had the opportunity to see how the journey from freshly plucked tea leaves to the fragrant tea that eventually finds its way into cups around the world unfolds. Walking through the factory and learning about the different stages of tea production made the experience all the more worthwhile, especially against the backdrop of endless green tea estates stretching across the hills. It was fascinating to see how something so familiar and comforting as a cup of tea carries with it so much history, craftsmanship and a sense of place.

After our visit to the tea factory, we continued our drive towards Ramboda, a picturesque mountain town nestled amidst the lush hills of Sri Lanka’s Central Province. Known for its winding mountain roads, cascading waterfalls and sprawling tea estates, Ramboda is also home to the revered Sri Bhakta Hanuman Temple. Established in 1999 by the Chinmaya Mission, the temple was built to honor Lord Hanuman and his connection to the Ramayana. Perched amidst the misty mountains, the temple is believed to stand in a region associated with Hanuman’s search for Sita, giving the place a special significance for devotees and visitors familiar with the epic. The temple overlooks the scenic Kotmale Reservoir, surrounded by sweeping valleys, emerald tea hills and nearby waterfalls, making the setting as captivating as the temple itself. The impressive statue of Lord Hanuman stands as the centerpiece, while the tranquil surroundings offer breathtaking views of the landscape stretching into the distance.

Continuing along the Ramayana Trail, our next stop was one of the most significant places associated with the epic, the Seetha Amman Temple in Seetha Eliya. Set amidst the lush hills of the Nuwara Eliya region, this colourful temple is traditionally believed to stand at the site where Sita was held captive by Ravana, making it a place of deep significance for devotees and travellers familiar with the Ramayana. The temple sits beside the Sita River, a small stream that flows through the surrounding landscape and is believed, according to local tradition, to be the river where Sita bathed during her time here. The area is also identified with the legendary Ashok Vatika, the garden where Sita is said to have spent her days in captivity. One of the most intriguing features of the site is the large footprint-like impression on the rock beside the river, traditionally believed to be the footprint of Lord Hanuman. Whether experienced through the lens of faith, mythology or history, the temple and its surroundings offer a fascinating connection to an epic that has travelled across generations. Surrounded by misty mountains, flowing waters and verdant greenery, Seetha Eliya felt like one of those places where mythology and landscape come together in a particularly evocative way.

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Our destination, Nuwara Eliya, is often referred to as Little England, a name inspired by its cool climate, colonial architecture and distinctly English character. Nestled amidst rolling tea plantations and mist covered mountains, the hill town offers a striking contrast to the tropical warmth of the coast. Its charming cottages, manicured gardens, winding roads and emerald landscapes give it a character unlike anywhere else on the island. At an elevation of around 1,868 metres, Nuwara Eliya is also one of the country’s highest towns, making it a popular retreat for those looking to escape into cooler temperatures and tranquil mountain scenery.

A short drive through the town brought us to Lake Gregory, one of the most picturesque spots in Nuwara Eliya. Surrounded by rolling green hills, misty mountains and manicured lakeside landscapes, the lake adds to the town’s distinctly tranquil charm. Originally created during the British colonial period, it has today become a popular spot for both locals and visitors looking to unwind amidst nature. The calm waters, cool mountain air and reflections of the surrounding hills make it particularly beautiful in the softer light of the early morning or evening. Taking a leisurely stroll along the lake and simply soaking in the peaceful surroundings offered a welcome pause from our journey through the hill country.

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After exploring the cool, misty hills of the central highlands, it was time to trade the tea country for sunshine, sea breeze and pristine beaches. And what better place to do that than Bentota, one of the island’s most popular coastal destinations. Set along the southwestern coast, Bentota is known for its long stretches of golden sand, swaying coconut palms and clear blue waters, offering the perfect contrast to the cool landscapes we had just left behind. The town is also known for the Bentota River, which meets the Indian Ocean here and adds another dimension to its scenic beauty. Whether it is lounging by the beach, watching the waves roll in, taking a leisurely walk along the shore or simply soaking in the warmth of the tropical sun, Bentota has an effortless charm that makes it an ideal coastal escape. After days of exploring mountains, temples, tea estates and stories steeped in history, the sound of the ocean was exactly the change of pace we needed.

We started our day with some time on the Bentota River, indulging in a few exciting water sports and making the most of the beautiful tropical setting.

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From the thrill of the river, we then continued along the coast towards the Kosgoda Turtle Hatchery, a conservation centre dedicated to protecting Sri Lanka’s endangered sea turtles. The hatchery works to rescue and care for injured turtles, protect eggs and support the release of hatchlings into the ocean. Walking through the centre, we learned about the different species found along the island’s coastline and the challenges these gentle creatures face, from habitat loss to fishing and other human activities. It was a meaningful stop that offered a glimpse into the efforts being made to preserve the rich marine life that thrives along these shores.

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After this, our next stop was the Madu River, where we set out on a peaceful boat ride through one of the most beautiful wetland ecosystems along the southern coast. Winding through mangrove forests and a network of small islands before meeting the Indian Ocean, the river is a remarkable example of the island’s rich coastal biodiversity. The surrounding wetlands are home to a variety of birds, fish and other wildlife, while the dense mangroves play an important role in protecting the shoreline and supporting the local ecosystem. As our boat glided through the narrow waterways, the landscape gradually shifted from open river to lush green tunnels formed by the mangroves, making the experience feel wonderfully secluded. Beyond its natural beauty, the Madu River also holds significance for the communities living around it, with fishing, cinnamon cultivation and other traditional livelihoods forming an important part of life along its banks. The boat ride offered a slower, quieter side of the coast and was a lovely reminder that the island’s beauty extends far beyond its beaches.

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After our day of exploring the river and its surrounding beauty, we headed back to our hotel and spent the evening unwinding by the beach that stretched right along the edge of our resort. With the gentle sound of the waves, the cool sea breeze and the fading colours of the evening sky, it was the perfect way to slow down and simply enjoy the beauty of the coast.

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The next morning, we travelled to Galle, one of the most fascinating and historically significant cities in Ceylon. Situated along the southwestern coast, Galle is best known for its magnificent Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the finest surviving examples of a fortified colonial town in South Asia. Originally established by the Portuguese in the 16th century and later expanded and fortified by the Dutch, the fort stands as a remarkable reminder of the island’s importance along the ancient maritime trade routes of the Indian Ocean.

Walking through its atmospheric streets, we found a beautiful blend of colonial architecture, old ramparts, historic churches, mosques and charming buildings that now house cafés, galleries, boutiques and local shops. What makes Galle particularly captivating is the way its history continues to live alongside the present. The old fortifications overlook the ocean, while life carries on within them, creating a fascinating meeting point between centuries old heritage and contemporary Sri Lanka. Exploring Galle felt less like visiting a historical monument and more like stepping into a living chapter of the island’s past.

A short distance from the fort, another landmark offered a completely different perspective of Galle. Perched on the lush slopes of Rumassala Hill, overlooking the Indian Ocean, the Japanese Peace Pagoda is a striking white stupa built as a symbol of peace and harmony. It was constructed in 2005 by Japanese Buddhist monks from the Nipponzan Myohoji order, one of several Peace Pagodas established around the world as a message of peace and non violence. The simple white structure stands in beautiful contrast to the deep blue of the ocean and the surrounding greenery, while the panoramic views from the hill stretch across the coastline and out towards the horizon. There was something particularly serene about standing here, away from the bustle of the city, with the sound of the sea below and the vast ocean unfolding in front of us.

Before calling it a day, we made our way to Unawatuna Beach and decided to linger until sunset. As the afternoon slowly gave way to evening, the sky transformed into a canvas of warm gold, soft orange and blush pink, with the last rays of sunlight shimmering across the sea. Sitting by the shore with a fresh, sweet coconut in hand, we watched the sun gradually slip towards the horizon, leaving behind a trail of colour that seemed to stretch endlessly across the ocean. With the sound of the waves in the background and the gentle sea breeze around us, it was one of those simple, unhurried moments that made the day feel complete.

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Our final day had arrived, bringing us to the last destination of this memorable trip, and what better way to end it than in the capital city, Colombo. A vibrant blend of history, modernity and coastal charm, Colombo offered a fitting finale to our journey through the island. We began by exploring some of the city’s most recognisable landmarks, including the striking Lotus Tower, which rises high above the Colombo skyline and has become one of the city’s defining symbols. We also visited Independence Square, a beautifully landscaped landmark that commemorates the country’s independence and offers a glimpse into its modern history. One of the most fascinating sights was the area around Colombo Fort, where the city’s different modes of transport come together in remarkable proximity, with roads, railway tracks and waterways all forming part of the bustling urban landscape. It was a fitting reflection of Colombo itself, a city where the old and new, the traditional and modern, and land and sea seem to come together effortlessly.

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Just weeks before our visit, Sri Lanka had been struck by Cyclone Ditwah, one of the most devastating natural disasters the island had faced in decades, bringing widespread floods and landslides across all 25 districts. More than two million people were affected, with significant damage to homes, roads, bridges, railways and other essential infrastructure. During our travels, we could still see the scale of the recovery underway, particularly across rural areas and villages that had endured landslides, flooding and extensive damage. What stood out, however, was the remarkable pace of the response. Rescue operations had swiftly given way to restoration and rehabilitation, with roads being cleared, infrastructure being repaired and communities working tirelessly to rebuild. The tourism sector, which had also felt the impact of the disaster, was steadily returning to normal as major tourist destinations, transport links and hotels resumed operations. Travelling through the country at such a time offered a perspective beyond the postcard perfect landscapes. It was a chance to witness the resilience of a nation that, despite having endured a devastating setback only weeks earlier, was already finding its way back to normalcy and opening its doors once again to travelers from around the world.

And just like that, our journey through this enchanting island came to an end. From misty tea plantations and ancient temples to golden beaches, vibrant traditions and stories that have travelled across generations, every corner of the island offered something to remember. But beyond the places we visited, it was the warmth of its people, the richness of its culture and the resilience of the island that stayed with me the most. Sri Lanka may have been my 20th country, but it left me with the feeling that some destinations are not simply meant to be visited. They are meant to be experienced, felt and carried with you long after you have returned home. And perhaps that is the true beauty of travel: the journey may end, but the stories never really do.